Iron decontamination
Paint that feels rough after a wash is carrying embedded brake dust and rail fallout. Here is how to dissolve it.
30 minIntermediate5 steps
Hot brake-dust particles and industrial fallout bake into clear coat and rust in place — the tiny orange dots on white cars. Washing will not move them. An iron remover reacts with the iron and turns purple as it dissolves it, so you can see it working. Do this before any protection goes on.
- 1
Wash and rinse first
Iron removers work on clean, wet or dry paint. Do the two-bucket wash and leave the car wet.
- 2
Spray panel by panel
Mist an even coat on one or two panels at a time, wheels included. Lower panels and the rear will bleed the most purple.
- 3
Dwell, do not dry
Give it two to four minutes. Watch it bleed. Do not let it dry; re-mist if it starts to.
Bay tip · It smells sulphurous. That is normal. Work with the garage door open.
- 4
Rinse thoroughly
Rinse all panels, seams and badges well. For heavy contamination, a second pass on the lower panels.
- 5
Protect straight after
Decon strips back to bare clear coat. This is the perfect moment for Ceramic Shield.
Common mistakes
- Doing it in sun on hot panels
- Skipping gloves
- Leaving decontaminated paint unprotected for weeks
Safety: Wear gloves and avoid eyes. Keep off matte wraps and uncured paint.